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.Measure, cut and fix a row of nogs below the window and in between the roof frames.(See above drawing) STEP 6.The doors Make the doors (2, one each end of the green house) as per above dimensions.Use 50x50 sawn tanalised h3 for the frames and cut the gussets from 7mm tanalised plywood.Make the doorframes up on an even piece of ground.Ensure frames are square and then nail the gussets in place on both sides of the doors.Hinge the doors in place and fit handles or pad bolts of your choice.STEP 7.The greenhouse cover Cover the greenhouse with an ultra-violet-resistant polythene.Hold the coverings in place by laying thin battens over the polythene (when the polythene is taut) and nailing the battens to the greenhouse studs, roof rafters etc.Cover the doors and windows also.Most hardware merchants or garden suppliers only stock the standard plastic polythene that is not UV resistant, however, they should be able to advise you where to get the polythene required for the greenhouse covering.Materials and quantitiesItemDescription100m of 75x50 sawn h3 (pressure treated)Framing; rip down for batons, doors and windowsMiscNails, plates, strapping, hinges, handles etc11m of 100x100 sawn h4 (pressure treated)Base3m 150x50 sawn h3 (pressure treated)Fascia2400x1200x7mm tanalised (treated) plywoodGussets30sq m ultra-violet-resistant polytheneCoveringGlossary of terms used in this projectBEAM: A supporting member.BEVELL: On an angle.BOTTOM PLATE: Bottom horizontal member of a frame wall.BRACE: To make rigidBUILDING LINE: The outline of a building.CENTRES: Crs; O.C; Term used for spacing; The measurement of spacing for studs, rafters, and joists in a building from the centre of one member to the centre of the next.CRS: See centres.DIMENSIONS: Any of the three linear measurements, length, breadth, and depth.DRESSED: Relating to timber.Planed; Smooth, even surface; gauged.ELEVATION: Side view of a building.END RAFTER: Rafter each end of the roof frame.FASCIA: Horizontal boards attached to rafter or truss ends at the eaves and along gables.FLUSH: being even with GALVANISED: Covered with a protective coating of zinc.GAUGED: See dressed GUSSET: a usually diamond or triangular-shaped plate or bracket for strengthening an angle in frameworkH3: Of timber Pressure treated suitable for exterior use but not in-ground.H4: Of timber Pressure treated suitable for exterior use and in-ground applications.H5: Of timber Pressure treated suitable for exterior use and in-ground structural applications.LONGITUDINAL: Running the length of the building.MEMBER: Piece of timber that is part of a frame or structure.NAIL PLATE: Gang nail plate; Metal plate with rows os sharp points that are hammered into butt-jointed timber to secure the join.NOG: See nogging.NOGGING: Trimmer; A short piece of timber set between two studs, joists, rafters or purlins to keep them rigid.O.C.: On centre; (See centres) PERIMETER: boundary.PLANE BRACE: A diagonal brace running along the plane of a roof.PLANED: See dressed.PLUMB: Vertical; Upright.PROFILES: Timber profiles; Horizontal boards attached level to stakes, used to mark out the boundary of a construction and establish the levels.RAFTER: Parallel members of a roof that support battens/purlins and roofing materials.RECTANGLE: Four sided figure with four right angles.SAWN: Rough sawn; Not gauged, planed or dressed.SPIRIT LEVEL: Tool used to ensure surfaces are level or plumb by means of a bubble in a tube of liquid fitted to the level.STUD: A vertical wood framing member, attached to the horizontal bottom plate below and the top plate above TAN: See tanalised TANALISED: Pressure treated timber for exterior use TIMBER PROFILE: See profiles.TOP PLATE: Top horizontal member of a frame wall supporting ceiling joists, rafters, or other members.TRIMMER: See noggings VERTICAL: See plumb [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]

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